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The Schizophrenic Nature of Bordeaux Blend Minor Components: Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc 2006 and Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

There are six varieties allowed in Bordeaux red blends. On the left bank, Cabernet Sauvignon is king; whereas Merlot rules on the right bank. Then there is Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. These are the "minor notes", that play an important role in rounding out each Chateau's proprietary claret. Of these four, Malbec stands on its own in Argentina, Carmenere does well on its own in Chile, but Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are much less frequently presented a lá carte.

Could it be that Cab Franc and Petit Verdot play the important role of improving the versatility of a claret that's based on Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Merlot? If so, at their best, these are "chameleon" varieties, able to fit in with whatever surroundings they find themselves in. They are the "funny" grapes, the schizophrenic grapes, and that's a good thing. Thankfully, new world wine enterprises are experimenting with stand-alone Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. Cab Franc is popular around Walla Walla, Washington, and Petit Verdot is gaining strength in Australia.

These two wines illustrate the positives of their schizophrenic nature, as well as pointing out the uniqueness they contribute to more noble blends.

Hahn Central Coast Cabernet Franc 2006

Cab Franc could be called the love grape, what requires lots of foreplay. It doesn't ripen until it's ready, and that typically means late November in the northern hemisphere. There is an advantage to taking your time, which is why I love Cab Franc.

When someone sticks their neck out and makes a Cab Franc, on its own, I want to taste it. Hahn Estates, who has a knack for turning out great value and authentic flavor, quietly released Cabernet Franc 2006. Figure most of their Cab Franc goes into their top notch affordable Meritage. Fortunately Hahn isn't afraid to throw caution to the wind and put out this Cab Franc.

You can expect tons of soft raspberry fruit packed into an atmosphere that's lightly perfumed and elegantly smoky.  Here is the embodiment of finesse, to be enjoyed at one's leisure. The fortuitous schizophrenia comes into play when pairing this Cab Franc with any mood or food. It goes great with everything. From cedar plank salmon to duck to steak, or just by itself, mix it up!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.3%.

Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot 2006

Petit Verdot is said to play a role in "stiffening the mid-palate" of Cabernet Sauvignon based Bordeaux blends. It is used to deepen the color and add more tannic backbone. And, it is said to be the grape that contributes that "pencil shavings", or what I call "oregano" character. Some consider it a bit difficult to tame on its own, like Tannat.

In Australia, Petit Verdot has been coming into its own. In fact, Deen De Bortoli Vat 4 Petit Verdot seems to sell better than its siblings in the range, that includes better known Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet and Pinot Noir. De Bortoli has consistently scored well with this Petit Verdot, pleasing the palates of all the world's gurus, from Food & Wine, to the Wine Advocate, to the Wine Spectator.

Expect lots of red ripe fruit, almost candy-like, to evolve out of your wine glass past your nose. I wouldn't disagree there is some essence of oregano here, although it's certainly not overwhelming. There isn't a lot of oak influence showing through, a fact that may just mean the integration job was masterfully executed. Sprinkle in a hint of tobacco, and that's it. The tannins are juicy but not harsh. Here again is a schizophrenic wine that can play well in a range of situations.

Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

No wonder these varieties find their way into fine Bordeaux blends and California "Meritage" blends. It's perhaps not that they impart some special, polarizing essence that must be kept in small amounts to be palatable. Quite to the contrary, it seems these are the moderating influences that bring an extreme Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot to the center.

Want to have even more fun? Mix these 2 lovely wines together!

Carlos Pulenta Vistalba Corte C Malbec Blend 2005

Vistalba Corte C may not be flashy, or possess one of the Top 10 most creatively designed wine labels, but it has a great quality: finesse. In fact, it's truly sensual. The unassuming label and lack of "buzz" about Corte C could have led me to miss this one. Thankfully, sometimes I am attracted to the shy ones. This may be the finest Malbec I've ever enjoyed.

To be fair, I've never been too excited about Malbec. The ones from Argentina, that everyone else seems to rave about, are usually a bit rough around the edges for my palate. Maybe they're too intense, too rustic, or have too much earthiness (unless you're grilling Ostrich). My experience with French Malbec, from Cahors, is limited, but my impression has been along the same lines. Nonetheless, I keep looking for Malbecs that work for me.

Corte C could be mistaken for a beautiful top-notch Bordeaux from an excellent vintage, or an expensive Bordeaux blend from Napa. If you're looking for brawn, power, and a killer punch, in both hands, this isn't your wine. To the power seekers, "finesse" can be a code word for "wimpy". Therefore not everyone is going to "get" this wine. The power of Corte C is all under the hood; it innervates the brain rather than inebriating it. If you're in search of a claret that takes its time to make its point, grab this one.

Vistalba is a label of Carlos Pulenta, who has spared no expense in creating a gravity-fed winery with the majestic Andes as a backdrop. The pictures on the Carlos Pulenta web site make me want to stay there. The setting is ideal. Clearly, Mr. Pulenta has perfectionist tendencies, and a genuine wine aesthetic runs through his veins. He is from a wine family, and in fact, his former job was President and CEO of Salentein. Comparing the two Companies' web sites, I'm not surprised by this. The aesthetics are similar.

Expect a deep dark color in the glass, that gives way to complex aromas of raspberry and blackberry, plus mocha, cedar, and eucalyptus. On the tongue, vanilla kicks in to the mix, giving a creaminess and sweetness to the berry flavors and tannins, and making for a very smooth experience. This is a dry wine, but you might think it is a liqueur; it's that ripe in flavor and silky in texture.

To achieve finesse, it isn't necessary to buy an expensive monster of a first-growth and cellar it for years. Why risk all that money and time? This is certainly one of the finest Malbecs to be seen around Nashville. Although the label doesn't mention it, Corte C is 85% Malbec, with 15% Merlot blended in. Oak aging was in French barrels, but not heavy handed. Maybe that's the secret?

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

What's Your Style? Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2006 and NO Unoaked Monterey Chardonnay 2007

A lot of very good and not very expensive Chardonnay originates in Monterey County. But what influences a bottle of Chardonnay more? Is it the the place where it is grown or the way it is made? I have to say both. Unlike in Burgundy, where the location dictates style, in Monterey there is total freedom to express the personality of the grape after it is picked, through its handling in the winery. Lots of oak, little oak, or no oak; secondary malolactic fermentation or not; it's up to the producer and wine maker to decide.

In Burgundy, if your vineyard is in Mersault, you are going to make a rich and oaky wine. If your vines are further south in Pouilly-Fuisse, you are going to make a Chardonnay with little or no oak at all. As a consumer, you know what to expect in terms of style based on where the wine is from. All you need to do is navigate the vintage charts and producers to make a selection that matches your tastes, mood and food.

In Monterey, you will need to taste a lot and decide for yourself which label is your style. Which label suits your mood? Which label will you open this evening? What if you're having a glass before dinner? How about with dinner? The good news is, I haven't tasted any fresh, well-made Chardonnay from Monterey I didn't like. The weather is cool there, the hang time for the grapes is long, and the soil is lean, well-drained and minerally.

Here are two Monterey Chardonnays that have both significant differences and similarities. I guess the story could be stated as thus: You can twist the grapes every which way, you can take the grapes out of Monterey, but you can't take Monterey out of the grapes.

Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay 2006

Carmel Road Winery is now part of Jackson Wine Estates, best known for Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay. Carmel Road is managed under a Brand "umbrella" that includes high-end labels Hartford Family and Freemark Abbey.

Carmel Road Monterey Chardonnay saw just over 6 months in oak barrels, 3/4 French, a minor portion new barrels. Starting out with high quality concentrated fruit, this is enough oak influence to make for a richer style Chardonnay. I would say this one is just a bit richer than middle-of-the road, without going off the rails. You could say it's efficient luxury. If this is your house wine, you might drive a metallic pearl Lexus. Alternatively, you might drink it when you're celebrating, but not showing off.

Expect a rich lemon-gold brilliance in the glass, and aromas of pear, lemon drops, vanilla plus a whiff of clove spice. There is a creaminess on the tongue. The flavor is moderately complex, noticeably oak influenced, with spicy tree fruit and tart citrus notes that balance out nicely in a smooth finish.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14%.

NO Unoaked Monterey Chardonnay 2007

This is the first vintage for NO Chardonnay. NO Vineyards and Winery has been making Lake County Sauvignon Blanc, devoid of oak or malolactic fermentation, since 2003. With the growing trend in unoaked Chardonnay, it's no surprise they would line-extend to leverage their brand name, which might just as well be "Buck Naked", "Butt Naked", or "In the Buff".

As expected, NO Monterey Chardonnay saw no oak, and no secondary malolactic fermentation. The screw cap nails this concept home, as not even the natural influence of a cork is allowed to manipulate the Monterey fruit. This is as close to a pure sample off the stainless steel tank as you can get.

NO is bright pale straw, with a slight greenish tint in the glass, noticeable lighter than the Carmel Road. The aromas and flavors are lean, dominated by Granny Smith apple and lemon. On the tongue, this Chardonnay is lean, tart and focused, with grassy, lemon-lime and green apple flavors. This is a Chardonnay for Sauvignon Blanc lovers, you might even say "shrill" for a Chardonnay. If this is your house wine, you might drive a hybrid vehicle, or maybe you just feel like breathing some clean air.

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Screw cap. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Being that both of these Chardonnays originate in Monterey County, don't expect their differences to outweigh their similarities. I expected them to be more different, but was surprised they both share a fruit forward nature, beautiful Chardonnay character, plus great minerality and acidity. The nice thing about the comparison is the NO (unoaked) Chardonnay costs a few dollars less than the Carmel Road. This is as it should be. After all, when you're avoiding the high price of oak barrels, you should pass along the savings to the consumer. All too often that isn't the case.

Out in the West Texas Town of El Paso: Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2006

It's a long way across Texas, even by air. But, in an attempt to turn over a new leaf and get going early, I made it from Nashville to El Paso, via San Antonio, by high noon. After an afternoon of work and squeezing my jump rope session in to the late afternoon blazing sun, it was time to go in search of something local to eat. Out on the west side of El Paso, near the mall and my hotel suite, I decided on The Greenery Cafe and Market. The reviews on Trip Advisor, once all thumbs up, appear to be slipping, but convenience won out and there I went for a take out and a bottle of wine.

Yuppie was the word that came to mind as I browsed the bottles and other goods at the Greenery Market. The Tuesday night staff was hoping I would choose something so they could get on with their closing routine. I did. I ordered Tacos Al Carbon over at the cafe, to go of course. After all, why not take advantage of that funky cool two level suite the I got upgraded to over at the Holiday Inn? After some deliberation, I went with a Rioja as my bottle of wine - to last me my two nights' stay. Palacios Remondo La Vendimia Rioja 2006 turned out to be a really nice choice for the mood and food.

You know the story of Rioja because that's the name everyone is familiar with when it comes to Spanish reds. Rioja is northern Spain, and Tempranillo is really popular there. Rioja can be really fresh, fruity, and sort of light, like La Vendimia, or it can be really heavy, oaky and some say, leathery, if you choose a higher priced Reserva that saw years of aging in the barrel.

Alvario Palacios is the brash young perfectionist who took over Palacios Remondo in Rioja after his father died. He since has modernized and La Vendimia is one of his products aimed at the new world. Based on the promise of excellent local low-yield vines, it is styled for drinking right away. Vendimia translates to "harvest", and this is Alvario's statement of the versatile potential of young Rioja.

The blend is 50/50 Tempranillo and Garnacha. Aging in oak is brief, just 4 months in 70% French oak, the remainder American. The wine was fined but not filtered.

You will pick up on the ripe red fruit here, a lot of cherry and perhaps strawberry. That sounds like a Pinot Noir, and you might substitute La Vendimia for a Pinot Noir. You could chill it a bit, but I was in too much of a hurry to wait. There is also a "garrigue" character to it, a combined sense of unbridled herbs and rocks. The oak comes across in the nose as a slight expresso note. On the tongue, the wine is a bit spicier and not as silky smooth as many Pinot Noirs, which I mention as a positive. It's not a Pinot Noir, it's a Rioja, and it has its own personality, regardless of the temptation to pigeon-hole it. The finish kicks out just a bit of vanilla.

Price: $15 (El Paso). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

As for The Greenery, I would rate it a thumbs up. The take-out order from the Cafe, consisting of Tacos Al Carbon, was overly generous, and it stood the test of time - the time it took to get back to my hotel room and go get the wine opened at the hotel bar. The beef was truly prime quality, tender and tasty. The trimmings were a cut above expectations. The establishment itself is impressively clean and uncluttered for a mall location. The Greenery Market is next door to the Cafe. I can't deny my roots as a Yuppie, having gotten my MBA in the 1980's, and I still own a 1987 BMW 3-series. This market might appeal to everyone, but a Yup will find it irresistable. Expect a nicely chosen wine selection, lots of chocolate, coffee, tea, nuts, dried fruits, sandwiches to go, olive oils, and all the things we can't leave home without. To whom it may concern, they even had Orin Swift's Prisoner and Grateful Palate's Bitch in stock. Who knew El Paso is so civilized?

Looking for Pepper and Butter? Try This Red and White: Las Rocas Calatayud Garnacha 2005 and Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2006

Pepper and butter seem to be the two most requested flavor influences among red and white wine shoppers. When it comes to butter, I think the American Chardonnay section of a retail store could be arranged on the basis of a butter scale. When it comes to pepper, most people think Zinfandel, but sometimes that elusive spice shows up in Grenache (Garnacha) or Mourvedre (Monastrell).

Here are a couple of bargains that remind me of more expensive wines, and they deliver a fresh grind of black pepper and a nice pat of butter. As you can imagine, they make great accessories to savory dishes.

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Garnacha 2005
Pass by the Zinfandel and turn over this rock for pepper. This is the entry level Las Rocas Garnacha, made in the unoaked style. Still, it reminds me of a Chateauneuf Du Pape, albeit on a more accessible level, and at 1/5 the price. Here you will find pepper a plenty, not to mention cherry liqueur, a savory characteristic not unlike roast meat, plus a certain gravelly earthy sensibility. Made for food, capable of carrying a slow cooked roasted dish, you might also find it to be a superb match for a well made pepperoni pizza.

Fruit for Las Rocas is sourced from 70-100 year-old vines located in Calatayud, between Madrid and Barcelona. The modern day Spanish importer/legend Eric Solomon is responsible for bringing Las Rocas to market. Wine Advocate gave Las Rocas 2005 90 points, and they say it's time to drink up. The 2006 is on the market, but there is still some 2005 to be bought in and around Nashville.

Price (Nashville): $11. Closure: Plastic cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay 2006
Columbia Crest gives a lot for a little, like this wonderful example of a Columbia Valley Chardonnay. Here you are getting something that delivers the elegance of a mildly oaked Burgundy at a bargain price. If it's what's in the bottle that counts, you might just want to pass by the top shelf Chardonnay and grab this one.

Expect lemon drops, lovely pear, light smoke, ginger, plus a moderate pat of that much in demand buttery character. This is a creamy white that would do very well with grilled chicken, roast chicken, or even a rich fish dish along the lines of Pompano en Papillote.

The creamy buttery character is developed through secondary fermentation, and the light smoke and spice owes itself to judicious oak aging (about 9 months in a variety of new and old barrels).

Price: $11 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Château Lagarosse Premières Côtes De Bordeaux 2005

The 1980's were a good time to be discovering wine. Napa was just beginning to focus on the classic worldly varietals and turn out competitive product. (And there were no traffic jams or limousines to interfere with your quest.)  Washington State was in the hands of Mom and Pops, just a curiosity. No one had heard of Merlot. Riesling was important. And the old world was where the sophistication was. Back then, for the average American, wine was just beginning to transition from Mateus, Lancer's and Boone's Farm, to Bordeaux, Spätlese, Mondavi, and Lytton Springs. Robert Parker struck a chord with his book about Bordeaux, touting the 1982 vintage and whetting everyone's appetite. You could actually buy a label that said Pauillac, Margaux, Graves, St-Julien or St-Estèphe, starting at less than $20. Once upon a time, I bought this respectable Pauillac, Château Batailley 1982, for under $16.

Now, when someone who is the age I was in 1985, comes into the store looking to buy a Bordeaux, curious, wanting to know the differences between the left and right banks, they usually go away empty handed. For $20, you just can't buy a label from a well known appellation. You have to pony up $50 and up, or look to the suburbs of Bordeaux, so to speak. Neither is all that satisfying an alternative. Your research begs you to compare a Pauillac to a Pomerol, to see the what difference the soil, the grape and the proximity to the river makes, but you question if that knowledge is worth a couple of hundred dollars.

Still there are bargains to be had, if you can look past the old world to the new, and Château Lagarosse is on that list. "A group of American investors", called Adams French Vineyards, purchased and have been renovating a group of Château to create a solid portfolio of approachable Bordeaux. The well-known and already well-exposed Michel Rolland is part of the management team of this endeavor, and he is putting his stamp on each bottle.

Château Lagarosse is located in Premières Côtes De Bordeaux, which is south of the high end appellations, but not too far from Saint-Èmilion. Château Lagarosse is chiefly Merlot, as you might expect. The exact blend is listed as 80% Merlot, with 10% each Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. This is Merlot with a French twist, a decidedly bigger personality than the typical California Merlot. At the finish line, this is Merlot that engenders respect for Merlot.

Expect a very aromatic nose, big on berries and almost candy-like, with flavors that run deeper, more towards cassis, black cherry and lots of rocks. Bordeaux wines run the gamut of styles, and some are really over my head. This one is nicely heady, makes you think, but stays accessible. There is plenty of tannic structure there. Robert Parker has assessed the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux with an overall 95 rating, one of the best in recent times. This wine is a testament to the quality of the vintage. You could probably even cellar it a while, but don't forget about it!

Price: $16 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.

Now and Then: Scott Harvey Amador County Zinfandel 2004 and Folie à Deux Ménage à Trois Red 2006

Scott Harvey is an overnight success in the wine business. If you believe that I've got a bridge to sell you. After 20+ years in the business, after achieving partnership in Folie à Deux, he championed the brand known as Ménage à Trois, which was since purchased by Sutter Home parent Trinchero. That fateful launch was some 10 +/- years ago, and now Scott, along with Jana (his wife, an industry "veteran" as well), have their own labels.

I didn't know this history of Scott Harvey Zinfandel until after I opened a few bottles of Amador Mountain Selection 2004. Actually it was a comment on a Winewaves post about Wingnut Amador Zin that revealed the connection to Ménage à Trois. But every label has a story, don't it? You think you're just drinking something you've never heard of, but that's almost never the reality once you awaken to the truth.

Scott Harvey is a pioneer in Amador, having traveled back and forth between the gold hills of California and Rhineland Pfalz in Germany in the mid-1970's. Over the course of three decades he has gilded his relationships with top Amador growers, and some people even credit Scott Harvey with putting the region on the map. He cut his teeth at Montevina and achieved early general manager status at Santino Winery (now Renwood).

Buying a bottle of Zinfandel you don't know, just because it's from Amador County, and expressly because you don't know it, and then having it turn out to be a real find - that's the thrill of the hunt. Especially if your find turns out to be made at a small local "liquor store" in your own neighborhood.

Scott Harvey Amador Mountain Selection Zinfandel 2004 has a nice piercing nose (I didn't say nose piercing!). It's plummy, raspby, lightly cedary, and there's a bit of forest floor earthiness to it, like a walk through Yosemite. The flavor is jammy but the character is deeper than jam, in fact it's deeper than you expect for about $15-20. You get a little of that all-spicy character joining the ample fruit on the tongue, and the finish is dusty, sturdy and yet ready for action right now. (The 2005 is the current vintage in release.)

Once we got around to pairing it with food, the wine was spot on for a natural pork loin chop with an heirloom tomato, sage, and vidalia onion reduction sauce and summer vegetable sauté. The rich natural sweet tart balance of the home grown tomatoes combined seamlessly with the wine.

Price: $15 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 14.5%.

We've come to know Ménage à Trois as a best seller at retail over the years, especially the red. Without apologies, it is now positioned as a red wine for people who normally don't drink much red wine. I must admit it seems to have become a little "watered down" over the past decade. Like many brands that come out of the gate and establish themselves behind a strong marketing premise and an over delivering execution, this one appears to have transitioned to resting squarely on its laurels. Yes, it's quite pleasant, but not as fit as it must have been in years past. The people want soft, and that's what they get. The blend of three, as it were, is dominated by Zinfandel (a la Scott Harvey's invisible hand), plus Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a sweet jam character, plus herbal undertones. The body and backbone are rather light, a good wine to make the transition into drinking dry reds. It has its place in the market to be sure, but there are red blends on much firmer footing for the same price.

Price: $9 (Nashville). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.